GeeEmm said:
f3 is a bit high isn't it? Serious question.
Hi Graham, do you mean in the sealed or ported version? I guess that's the tradeoff for high sensitivity. I originally thought I'd be making a passive crossover and using a valve amp. There'll be lots of subs around to help out on the bottom (in theory!).
It is possible to put the f3 down to 37 Hz by messing with the tuning (green line below). But it's all port.
Seano said:
I see much cabinet assembly trickiness and potentially low WAF...
Yes... :-O one thing about the wide baffle, though, is that you can put them much closer to the rear wall without detrimental effect. In theory, I think. So that helps.
Looking at it now, it's become clear that I can make them in four sections. In fact... maybe I can make the center part first and get them going with that, and the wings later. I see many T-nuts...
Hm... and that way maybe I can use bendy ply on the wings...
Hi Graham, do you mean in the sealed or ported version? I guess that's the tradeoff for high sensitivity. I originally thought I'd be making a passive crossover and using a valve amp. There'll be lots of subs around to help out on the bottom (in theory!).
It is possible to put the f3 down to 37 Hz by messing with the tuning (green line below). But it's all port.
I mean sealed. I have sealed high efficiency 12" drivers in my HT fronts which don't work under ~70Hz. Sound likes grunting pig shit without subs.
Which means I ALWAYS have Sub amp & subs running, even if I'm just listening to the radio.
If I was to do it again, I would give higher priority to a lower F, and a lower priority to higher efficiency.
Yes... :-O one thing about the wide baffle, though, is that you can put them much closer to the rear wall without detrimental effect. In theory, I think. So that helps.
If they are close to a wall then how about shaping them with a flat back which would simplify the curve? Does the fascia of the wings have to be flat or can it be broken up to minimise the expanse...I'd be thinking like overlapping boards or strips of two alternate materials in a vertical orientation.
It does remind me of some of those Troels Gravesen (?) designs from w-a-y back
I don't think I could live without DSP any more. I could use a pair of the plate amps in each of these speakers. The idea has been starting to appeal to me - avoid all those wires. I'll have to work it out but I don't think it costs any more than buying separate amps and DSP.
I guess you'd need an L pad on the compression drivers
Does the fascia need to be flat... it needs to be smooth. Is that what you mean?
Yes. The best but fiddliest way is to use your MDF or whatever and notch out the back of it in strips with a table saw to allow you to bend the sheet. Fill the grooves with caulk just before you fix the bend in place so there's no air gaps or voids...
Comments
No tweeter testing yet, but I did finally draw up the concept diagram. See anything wrong with it? (Serious question)
f3 is a bit high isn't it? Serious question.
I see much cabinet assembly trickiness and potentially low WAF...
Hi Graham, do you mean in the sealed or ported version? I guess that's the tradeoff for high sensitivity. I originally thought I'd be making a passive crossover and using a valve amp. There'll be lots of subs around to help out on the bottom (in theory!).
It is possible to put the f3 down to 37 Hz by messing with the tuning (green line below). But it's all port.
Yes... :-O one thing about the wide baffle, though, is that you can put them much closer to the rear wall without detrimental effect. In theory, I think. So that helps.
Looking at it now, it's become clear that I can make them in four sections. In fact... maybe I can make the center part first and get them going with that, and the wings later. I see many T-nuts...
Hm... and that way maybe I can use bendy ply on the wings...
I mean sealed. I have sealed high efficiency 12" drivers in my HT fronts which don't work under ~70Hz. Sound likes grunting pig shit without subs.
Which means I ALWAYS have Sub amp & subs running, even if I'm just listening to the radio.
If I was to do it again, I would give higher priority to a lower F, and a lower priority to higher efficiency.
99% of the time I don't need excessive volume.
Jus' sayin'.
Graham
Grunting pig shit eh?! )
Well, I know what you mean. But I have to build it because I have the drivers
Maybe you just need a quiet sub amp?
If they are close to a wall then how about shaping them with a flat back which would simplify the curve? Does the fascia of the wings have to be flat or can it be broken up to minimise the expanse...I'd be thinking like overlapping boards or strips of two alternate materials in a vertical orientation.
It does remind me of some of those Troels Gravesen (?) designs from w-a-y back
Yes! The acapella and poor man's strad
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Acapella_WB.htm
http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/PMS.htm
Does the fascia need to be flat... it needs to be smooth. Is that what you mean?
Well ya never said that, did you
I'm giving up on the idea of building a centre speaker. Carnt be farked.
I'm still thinking of put ting the stereo DSP plate amp in my econowaves though, which will allow me to do a coupla things:
*Time align them with my subs
*EQ them a bit
*Not have to modify the existing notch filter in the passive xover
I did I did I did. Didn't I :-S
I don't think I could live without DSP any more. I could use a pair of the plate amps in each of these speakers. The idea has been starting to appeal to me - avoid all those wires. I'll have to work it out but I don't think it costs any more than buying separate amps and DSP.
I guess you'd need an L pad on the compression drivers
Yes. The best but fiddliest way is to use your MDF or whatever and notch out the back of it in strips with a table saw to allow you to bend the sheet. Fill the grooves with caulk just before you fix the bend in place so there's no air gaps or voids...
Pics:
Measurement:
http://johnr.hifizine.com/2014/04/sb29rdc-on-pellegrene-waveguide/