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HIFilling
A hot day to HiFill for HiFi
2 away Gedde's clones with AE TD12" and dual opposed base cab's for AE PB10"'s & 12" Alpine 12D4's
Cheers
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Comments
I know nice work when I seeit Mal and that some nice work.
After filling and sanding the box's everything looked good .Wood hides marks as well ,these show up after you HiFill .All I need to do is glaze fill and a couple coats of HiFill again .
If you head over to the diy section of sna and check out fury thread
An Oblate Spheroidal Journey... AKA Project Overkill!
You will see what we had to do .
Cheers
Is HiFill a kind of bog?
Morning John
Hi Fill is a higher solid content undercoat/sealer .I use only two part Hi fill better build and doesn't sink .Its used to level surface once you rub back the surface.
If you want something with higher build and spray able you need to look at spray polyesters .
cheers
Mal that is very nice work. You have some great skills for a Victorian.
I'm out of my league :-)) Got no idea what's going on. Is this to make the shape, or so the paint looks better?
One day you'll have to show me in person. I learn faster that way.
Looks good though :-bd
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In the bad old days of body work . You repaired the dint in the car filled sanded the filler to match the profile of the car .
Even though the filler looked flat and even with the original paint there still would be a high spot the filler repair and the original paint and a low spot ,the metal between the to.
What you would do is under coat to seal the filler and metal blending over the paint and use spot putty over the whole repair and the surrounding area of the original paint .Then you would block back the spot putty the a finer grade of paper the get a a flat surface . Then under coat over the top again rub and paint .
Under coats are only sealers and to give and even colour base to paint over . Not to fix scratches and small repairs . The trouble with spot puttys they would sink over time and the repair could and would show through .
Now we have high fill primers to do the same job better still 2 part primers that use a catalyst to dry hard and stop sinkage over time .
What I'm finding working with MDF and Ply is you can fill any lows holes damage sand it straight come back the next day and its not straight flat anymore. The mdf & ply move with temp & humidity .
Whats the answer doing a bit of reading there isn't one fix for all without going down the vacuum resin impregnation route to stabilize the wood product .
What I have found is a few steps people have tried ,but there not cheap and take a fare bit of time to do .
What I could do is 2pak epoxy prime then fill & sand then high fill .
Epoxy prime then spray a couple heavy coats of spray polyester block all repairs/joins back then HiFill .
Cover with fine fibreglass cloth ,fill any joins then Hifill .
Always seal the internal walls to help reduce humidity effecting the wood .
The last couple of job's have been quickie job's and to keep cost down and to help out some genuine guys in this hobby of ours .
.
Got 4 18" base cab's coming up after Christmas time to put plan B & C into action .If the owners are willing to pay for materials . My fav 2pak HiFill primer was $250 for 4 litres
Cheers
Nice tip there Mal, about sealing the internal walls, thanks.
The rest is over my head, except the $250 for 4 Litres. Now I see why you want Sean to buy that bike...
The last resto job I done the paint alone was close to $1K ,that was 17 years ago .
The finish I'm looking at for my amp case's will be close to $2K just for paint .
Painting ain't cheap and some of these paints need special spray gun nozzle sizes & guns .
CHeers
$2k for paint! :-O :-O
This isn't including fillers Hi Fill primers
http://www.alsacorp.com/products/mirrachrome/mirra_price.htm
Also looking into their film range which isn't much cheaper but I might not have to buy a new spray gun .
Cheers
Hm Mal, do you have an LPH50 spray gun with 1.0 tip size or a detail gun? Just checking.
I do have a detail gun but not a LPH50 or similar there's a few options out there .
I'll need to new guns ( $1400.00 all up )because my old guns don't have the finer nozzle sizes .Plus mine aren't compliant guns = less over spray . One of the guns I'm looking at is a LVLP gun .
Then do I look at spraying amp cases ,speaker cabinets for people ,but to be honest most people wouldn't want to pay .
CHeers
We seal our plywood with intergrain ultraclear...which looks for all money like watered down Clag when in the tin. But it works really well to seal the wood.
Will check it out Seano
I've not sealed the inside of a box. Then again, most of them have been, uh, sealed. Must be possible to use something cheaper than ultraclear though? I read somewhere using diluted wood glue?
Although, now you mention it, I've been thinking about coating the insides with some sort of damping material. That might kill two birds with one stone?
I used their universal sealers ,cheap and easy to use .
http://www.bondall.com/mainsite/
Cheers