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Tapped horn
Pair of Alpine SWR-12D4 tapped horns ,well ones almost finished .
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Almost done
Cheers
Crikey Mal, how much do those weigh! Are they finished at this point?
25kgs of driver per box plus 75kgs of ply ( 2.5 sheets per horn )plus screws and glue .
Did I tell you I build things I can't move
Hmmmm ... I didn't think it was that much. Roger and I were able to move mine without much trouble. Admittedly only about 6 metres from the workshop, then a day of moving the bugger into place and digging sand out of the way!
I also used crappy cheap Chinese lightweight formply. Much lighter than MDF and about the same price.
The formply I used has a Russian birch ply centre and no voids .I think I payed $90 a sheet .
CHeers
And the cost of new saw blades!
No problem cutting with these
http://www.festool.com.au/Saw-Blade-160mm-x-22-x-20mm-52-tooth
Cheers
Oh I thought you had said you wore a blade or two out.
I tried a higher tooth count blade and didn't notice any difference, maybe need better material to show a diff.
I did have to get the timber blade resharpened because I got lazy and didn't change the blade half way through .
Cheers
How did you know the blade needed resharpening? (Serious question!) Was it just, like, not cutting, or more subtle than that?
The saw didn't feel like it was gliding through the cut as easy ,still a nice cut edge.
The other sign was a couple of the cuts weren't square because I was pushing harder and moving the guide slightly.
The marine ply glue started to gum up the blade and build up in the saw guide .
Where I get my tools from they have a company that's very good at resharpening and replacing cutting bit's so I wasn't worried about getting the blade resharpened ,more cost effective than replacing the blade or pricey hole saw's .
Cheers
John, when using timber cutting/routing/drilling type tools, the tool should do the work, not your shoulder.
You arm is only there to steer it.
If you have to push it, it's not 100% sharp.
If something is screaming and smoking in the workshop and it's not you...then the cutting implement is in need of attention.
Okey dokey, thanks guys, I'll pay attention next time I'm cutting. Which should be Sunday! Coz a) the weather is clearing up and b) Paul mc240 helped me get a couple of sheets of birch ply today.
How much does a blade sharpen typically cost?
HI John
It was cheaper than buying a new blade,I think it was $20 mates rates .They do a number of festool blade's and the cutting bit is the same width as original .
Trouble with ply your cutting glue as well as the timber .I would use a multi tooth blade suited for laminated floors & polymer materials . But it will depend on how many cuts your going to do .
Cheers
Sharpening costs depend on how many teeth are destroyed (chipped/missing) - I seem to spend about $30 on average. Given that a new one from CMT can be upwards from $60...a good deal.
My local tool outlet sends them to a bloke in Western Sydney and they come back better than new. I can find out whom if you like...
Found out there's a place down the road from me that does sharpening. I'll give him a call tomorrow. The Festool dealer told me I was using the wrong blade anyway (too many teeth), which is probably my real problem...