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Hi Graham, you get them direct from miniDSP - http://www.minidsp.com/products/plate-amplifiers/pwr-ice125
Cool! What drivers/configuration?
I need to align my centre channel with the L&R main HT speakers i made in 2013.
They have a 12" Dayton PA310 driver and a screw-on D220Ti CD onto a JBL waveguide.
I'm not overly happy with the PA310's but I can't be fagged doing anything about it. :-q
I need to make a bespoke sealed centre enclosure with speakers in a W-T-W config.
It needs to be custom so it sits below my projected screen image & forward of the screen recess.
I'll be Using 8" drivers & the same screw-on CD
http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/selenium-d220ti-1-compression-driver/
JBL waveguide http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/h6512-6-1-2-x-12-waveguide-1-threaded/
I'll have a follow-up chat with Paul Spencer re which possible 8" drivers.
These are the ones we have discussed previously http://www.theloudspeakerkit.com/peerless-830869-8-nomex-cone-hds-woofer/
I have been asked "why 8" drivers?"
Power handling, SPL & coz I can.
It ends up being an expensive centre speaker
$US300 for DSP amp delivered
$AUD300 for components + delivery
$??? for enclosure
Any suggestions John!? X_X
When you say W-T-W, is that horizontal or vertical?
G'day John
I is talking horizontal config
O [ o ] O
Hi Graham, usually that arrangement is considered compromised, because of the lobing effects off-axis (horizontally). (Toole pages 399-401). The recommendation given for a horizontal speaker is a three-way: W-(TM)-W. i.e. this type of arrangement:
This isn't universally agreed, with discussion about exactly where the lobes are vs the listening angle needed in the particular situation. But with the wider spacing (waveguide is horizontal?) of your configuration it's something to be aware of.
Another thought would be to use a coax. I see B&C has some nice-looking drivers e.g. http://www.parts-express.com/bc-12cxn76-12-neodymium-coaxial-speaker-80-x-80-degree--294-576
Only $498.80 each! :-O
Eminence have cheaper ones, as do Seas (but smaller).
The other issue is having the same sound across all speakers. I found (a long time ago) with using different pairs of speakers that it sounded weird across the front. I ended up building a set of 5 all using the same full-range driver. Avoids all of the above issues but introduces some others particularly not much output (but that's OK for me for HT). I'm in the process of adding tweeters to them all now for better dispersion up top.
I am also wondering if you are using a receiver to power the other speakers? If so then you would probably want to use a passive design anyway. That would bring the cost down.
What don't you like about the Dayton woofers?
PS Here's an interesting idea, perhaps you could do something similar and put a row of smaller drivers under the JBL waveguide:
http://www.diysoundgroup.com/forum/index.php?topic=11.0
Hi John
A bit of context...
I am constrained by vertical dimensions. The enclosure will be sitting on a recessed shelf in front of the recessed screen.
This is why the enclosure will be a bespoke 'battle axe' design.
The drivers will be forward of the front of the shelf to allow me to 'lower them vertically'.
This is a reason why they are 2-way. I can't physically fit a 3-way design.
I also can't utilise anything larger than an 8" dimensionally.
Another reason they are 2-way, is to mach the CD & waveguide already used in the existing L&R speakers.
I am using a receiver, but the included DSP gives me some flexibilty over SPL matching etc. A decent passive crossover will take less money but more time to build.
I am already not getting enough done, so I want to expedite the build. This costs more money...
I don't like the Dayton 12" drivers coz they have a peak in them. The passive xover has a notch filter, but not sufficient.
One day, when I am not so emotionally wounded, I will get off my middle-aged spread and do something about it.
But then again, I could be wrong
Graham, have a look at http://www.minidsp.com/aboutus/news/214-introducing-the-nanoavr
more later when i gethome
G'day John
Nice piece of kit there
UNfortunately my NAD T773 AVR is pre HDMI :-S
:-O
Hah hah I like doing that
Well, looks like you can get SPDIF to HDMI convertors.... adds another box and no guarantee it will work... What I was going to suggest is use the nanoAVR to improve the response of the PA310s, and that would also make is easier to build a passive center crossover.
But, scratch that
I do have a Behringer Ultracurve I can use to 'tame' the 310s.
More phucking cables!
I just haven't got around to unpacking it or setting it up.
I have been very tardy with my AV projects for the last 6 months or so. :-??
I was supposed to finish building my bespoke ultrasonic record cleaning machine over XMAS, but my back was out for 12 of those days. :-q
Also, my projector now needs a ~$400 repair. Dang it! X-(
I'd never post !
Hm, lot of bad backs in Melbourne. Must be something in the water? Graham, the penny just dropped, you are using analog between the BDP and the AVR?
Hi John
No, I'm using either optical or coax digital.
I caint remember which. It deepended which cable I had available on the day that was the right length.
That is the best way to do it, isn't it! :-b
How would you insert the UltraCurve?
Lots of lubricant & a grim face?
:-S
What do you suggest John?
Obvioulsy, I haven't given this enough thought.
It's still in a box in the garage.
BtW
I dunno if my idea of using the pwr ice 125 is gunna work, due to height restrictions.
I'll have to do some measuring, but I think the plate is gunna be too high even if I mount it on it side at the rear of the centre enclosure.
Dang it, I was sorta keen on the idea.
Well, I'm wondering if maybe analog is the way to go in this situation. Have you tried it / how does it sound? That way you get TrueHD and DTS HD-MA decoding on your BDP-83 (which AFAIK won't "fit" digitally down a coax/optical connector) and you can put whatever processing you want in-between the BDP and the NAD.
Just thinking out loud...?
From BDP-83 manual:
Or... is there a row of jumpers on the back? Right here:
If so, that seems to be between the preamp and the power amps, you can insert whatever there.